9/11 An Ocean Away

Sorry for two somewhat heavy posts in a row, but I had the strange experience of experiencing the tenth anniversary of 9/11 not in the US, but in Ghana. This in some ways reminded me how far away I am while also showing just how small the world is.

I had mixed feelings about not being in the US for the anniversary. On the one hand, it definitely stirred up some feelings of homesickness, to not be surrounded by others who have similar reactions to this day that I do. On the other, it was almost a relief for it to just be another day like any other and to escape the constant reminders. But then, completely by accident, I happened to arrive at the smoothie place on Oxford Street for my ritual Sunday afternoon smoothie/use of the free wi-fi exactly as the Memorial Service at Ground Zero was starting on CNN, which the smoothie place broadcasts (it has a name but literally everyone just calls it the smoothie place). There was something very surreal about sitting thousands of miles away, tearing up, surrounded by chattering Ghanaians who weren’t giving the TV a second glance.

But that’s not to say Ghanaians had no knowledge of the day. In fact, the week before, I had fielded numerous queries from Ghanaian friends and coworkers about the upcoming anniversary. I was amazed at how many of them spoke vividly about their own memories of that day, many recounting exactly where they were when they heard just as we do. My coworker who was in his first month at university at the time told me how thousands of students gathered in the student union and watched the news coverage all day long. I shouldn’t have been so surprised at these revelations as I was, but my feelings about 9/11 so closely come from being an American and especially one who lived so close to New York City that it's easy to forget what a truly huge event this was globally, and how traumatic it was for many people of every nationality to see America attacked in that way.

But just as I was marveling about how closely connected we really are, that same coworker asked me how New York was marking the anniversary: celebrations? A parade? When he said this I could only gape at him, confused if he was making some sick joke or something. But then I quickly realized he was being serious. In Ghana, the solemnity that marks an occasion like this one in the US just does not exist in their society. Funerals are huge parties, occasions for music and dancing and drinking. Death is considered to be much more an occasion to celebrate the life of the person than an occasion for sadness. As much as we may claim we want to celebrate the person’s life when someone dies in the US, it does not even approach what is completely second nature in Ghana. The first week I was here, I was introduced to a Ghanaian and in our first conversation, he informed me casually that his father had died this week. I had no idea what to say, stumbling out an “I’m so so sorry. How are you doing?,” a reaction that legitimately confused him. Grief is just culturally here very different than in the US, and honestly probably much healthier. So my coworker was in no way being insensitive or offensive when imagining a 9/11 parade in New York City – if the tragedy had occurred in Ghana, that very well could be how they would mark the occasion.

Ok, thanks for indulging me in this post – I’m sure everyone is ready to not hear about 9/11 for awhile. Just as a programming note, I’m leaving on Friday for Senegal (to visit Dakar and stay with some fellow PiAf fellows) and The Gambia (for the ACA Annual Conference aka what has been consuming my life for the past month) for 10 days, so I won’t be posting for a little while. Hopefully when I come pack I’ll have lots of good stories to share so you won’t have to read these inner ruminations anymore!!

And finally, a big shout-out to my dad, for proving he can still win the Best Father Ever award from thousands of miles away (it wasn’t anything that dramatic – but he managed to do ACA a huge favor all the way in NJ that was super appreciated!)